“High-Rise Biscuit, Hominy Grill – Charleston is a town full of biscuit pushers, but nobody has quite the mastery over this Southern staple as Robert Stehling of Hominy Grill. His High-Rise Biscuit is a thing of flaky wonder. Locals know it as a key player in the finest breakfast in town, and tourists who taste it leave pondering whether the chef might really be part magician. Have it as a side, cover it in sausage gravy, or enjoy it as the vehicle for the Big Nasty (fried chicken breast, cheddar cheese, and sausage gravy). You really can’t go wrong.”
Before the meetings started on Thursday morning, I walked the half mile to Hominy Grill. As I was walking in the door, this fellow on the street kept asking me if I had parked across the street. I insisted that I had not, but he kept asking, “are you sure you didn’t park in that lot?” As I had walked, I was fairly sure I did not park in that lot. I really wasn’t sure why he was so concerned until I was leaving. It was then that I saw that he was a security guard for the building across the street and they would have had me towed. In retrospect, I appreciated his concern.
I asked the waitress for a recommendation and she said that a lot of folks were fond of the huevos rancheros or if I wanted something with variety, I should get the two egg plate. I ordered the eggs, scrambled, with bacon and a biscuit.
When the eggs arrived, which I had ordered scrambled with cheese, they had some kind of white cheese in them. I know that I didn’t say what kind of cheese I wanted and I don’t know that this is a written rule anywhere, but scrambled eggs with cheese should always include a cheddar type cheese. I’ve never had them with any kind of white cheese that I really cared for.
The bacon was crispy and thick cut and very tasty. But it is a challenge to screw up bacon, unless you burn it. On to the biscuit – I been waiting for this since before we left Atlanta. It was a letdown. My wife makes infinitely better biscuits. I used to make better biscuits from a recipe my aunt gave me that was based on mayonnaise.
I’m not sure why everyone raves about this one unless
a) they’ve never had a good biscuit; or
b) there are no better biscuits in Charleston.